
Gourmet SA -
A Culinary Exploration
By: The Cobbler King
Introductions: I have had the privilege of eating in over 40 countries around the world, which may or may not qualify me as an expert. In most cases, I have been shaken and not stirred by these experiences and while memorable meals have been had at Ondines in Sausilito, The River Cottage in London, Konigshauf in Munich and Bergers in Paris, they are simply highlights in my somewhat barren gastronomic travels. In reply to these experiences, my purpose now is not to highlight the wonderful restaurants we have in South Africa, but rather to pass comment on our fodder in general – perhaps with the possibility of ill regarded comments on other countries national foodstuffs. Do not expect objectivity!
The fine print: I must, at the outset, declare myself: I love food. I particularly love food in South Africa. Not all of it, of course; the ubiquitous “Russian and chips”, koeksusters, the last pie at the garage at midnight, stamp mielies, airline food in general and Aromat are all abominations of the first order and should have long gone the way of the dodo, or George Bush. However, alongside the culinary atrocities, we have a wonderful eclectic mix of cooking styles emerging from our polyglot racial makeup encompassing Indian, Italian, Portuguese, Greek, Chinese, European and African variations. These styles – and all their ingredients – are readily available for all with any level of culinary skill. This is a category that euphemistically includes amateur cooks like myself, either in the classical manner or with some blending and adaptation (I think that the modern name for said blending up of food styles is called ‘fusion cooking’). I defy anybody to beat the enjoyment and satisfaction of a well timed peri-peri chicken dish, a piquant and spicy briyani or even a kleftiko lamb. Kleftiko, of course, means stolen and in our crime challenged country it is probably best that we keep to the Greek naming convention.
My children, who are all grown up now, have faced innumerable meals at home and in restaurants where the key conversation topics (after politics) related to what we were eating at the time, what we would be eating next and what we had eaten in the past. To their credit, they entered into the spirit of things and can hold their end up in any gathering of foodies; although my daughter’s weird vegetarianism is still a source of much disquiet between my wife and I. To further illustrate the point of family food adventurism, a few years ago I was cutting up some raw crayfish for a meal when my son - at the time aged about fourteen - asked what I was doing and before I could respond popped a piece of the crayfish into his mouth and pronounced it “cool”.
So what is the point that I am laboring towards? Do we, as South Africans, have the best food in the world? Well, yes, I do believe so and what is more I intend to prove it. Recently, we returned from a walking holiday in southern Tuscany - a holiday that was filled with everything important; friends, family, great scenery, wonderful conversations and of course lots of very good Italian food and wine. Much fuss was made of the wonderful cured meats, the fresh vegetables, wild boar, the breads and pastries, the ten year ageing of the Brunello wines and of course the pasta. Well, I have to tell you that I have no idea how the average Italian can afford to eat and drink at the prices they charge, but more pertinent to this discussion - we don’t have to take a step back at all. All the same ingredients are available here, at less than half the price and, from the appropriate suppliers, of the same or even better quality. You think I am joking? Just in my area of Johannesburg, I have access to a first class delicatessen at Goodmans, a great fish shop Fish Citi, and wonderful fresh vegetables from the Impala grocery store. I also have an excellent butcher, who will cut exactly what I want in the quantity that I want with an arrangement of well hung meats to beat anything I ever saw in my birth place of England.
Jody Schecter, erstwhile World motor racing world champion and, incidentally, a South African who now farms in England was rabitting on about our hormone enriched beef the other day. How does he expect us to stay world rugby champions without it I say? Perhaps, more to the point, have any of you had a steak in the US that is half as good as a sirloin from the Butcher Shop, or a piece of Welsh lamb that actually tastes of anything. Come to think of it, now that I have hit my stride, have you tasted a pan fried fish anywhere in the world that tastes as good as fresh rock cod or even a kabeljou fillet? That is if you can even get your hands on fresh fish abroad. I once ate a steak in Chicago that was a disturbing shade of blue, so soft you could cut it with a blunt spoon and enriched with absolutely no flavour - all taste of beef had been carefully eradicated! Mind you, I also ate at a restaurant in Malibu that had a 1kg hamburger on its menu – that was impressive, but not impressive enough to make up for the USA’s low standard of beef. However, about South African food, I could wax lyrical – Boerewors in the right hands can be an eternal thing of beauty and a joy, our Pieman’s Pantry Pies are unmatched, our olive oil from the Cape subliminal, our ostrich biltong!, our fresh snoek!, etc. etc.
To summarise … briefly: If you take the choice, the variety, the quality (and I have not even started on the Cape wines), the access to the correct ingredients and finally the relative cost of our produce you have to admit, nobody has it as good as we do here.